One has decided on Spain for the summer. After all they have won Wimbledon, The World Cup, Tour De France and the German Grand Prix (by default) – the Spanish must be doing something right. Foolishly you decided to drive from Bayonne in France to Vigo on the North Atlantic coast, if only because you have never been there. Vigo you learn is where La Pinta left to discover America (not that it was ever ‘lost’ mind). On the way (it is nearly 900Ks) you might stop in the medieval city of Leon. (Images © Sam North - Vigo Port taken from Park Castro with my trusty Nikon Film Camera. yes still using film!)

Everyone will tell you to stop in Burgos for the Cathedral, but Leon is much more interesting and welcoming. It has one of the finest Cathedrals in the world (the interior is all stained glass and wonderful to behold). I like the fact that the city isn't over-commericalised either and eating out can be quite reasonable compared to other cities. The city is truly welcoming, but rather hot. It was 38c whilst I was there and seems to be filled with very beautiful women – none of whom speak English. Worth learning Spanish just to talk to them I should think. There is a big University there and I note the Spanish Prime Minister is vacationing there this summer.

Want a stroll by the rather empty river? Just walk from San Marcos Plaza, where the Parador is stunning and the dining room reminiscent of a medieval banquet room and the food (though expensive) wonderful.  Now just stroll into the old town and listen to the thousands of House Martins that fly about the city.  Dine in one of the many old bars of this city and enjoy the Rioja (served chilled). Explore secret doorways that lead to hidden bars. Driving on to Vigo up steep hills and mountains, I realised quickly that I needed a car with a larger engine. A Peugeot 107 is great for parking, but not the hills, but it got there in the end and Vigo turned out to be much bigger than expected.  A city of 300,000 people it boasts a major Citroen factory and a Freeport (hence why all the motorways are filled with trucks carrying vehicles and steel parts deeper into Spain.)  It has many elegant avenues and is such a contrast the overbuilt Med coast it is a pleasure. The coastline is unspoiled and very well used by the local population. I might add Vigo is hard to get into. Beware the AP-9. You can almost reach your hotel and then suddenly you are on the AP-9 motorway heading right out again and there is no turn off! 25ks later you can turn around and blow me if it doesn't nearly happen again. Take the Estacion turn off in the city, never mind you dont want a train, it is the ONLY way into the old Port area, believe me. (image: Doorway to a secret restaurant)

Vigo has an elegant restored old port area – although I warn you that if planning to stay there, bring earplugs.  The Spanish never sleep, they yell at the top of their voices on their phones at 4am and garbage is collected very nosily at 3pm, 4pm and bottles at 5pm.  Sleep at the front of any hotel is impossible. There is a great choice of restaurants and tapas bars and people in Vigo are very friendly. The old port park sports this odd collection of 'art' (see photo) suspended across the sky and quite often choirs and Galcian dancers come to entertain of an evening. Just sit in the many bars and restaurants around it and enjoy the spectacle. I like the fact that the main shopping routes are all traffic free and if you judge a town by the bookshops, as I do, the choice is excellent. There was a fantastic collection of antiquarian books on sale on the waterfront too with many browsing for bargains or unrecognised gems. Some English crime fiction too.

I was lucky enough to be entertained by Hackwriters correspondent James Skinner there along with his lovely wife and they took me for lunch to their apartment on a private island.  Their home looks out across the bay to white sand and crystal blue waters. (Cold water I might add).  There is a stunning beach area all the way from Vigo down to Baiona, not yet discovered by many British, thank god.  I found myself at a nudist beach by accident (the only place I could find parking) and the cops arrived and I thought it would get ugly (well uglier than some of the sights on display) but they were just upset with motorcyles parked inches over the yellow line. Seems cops are the same the world over, huh. I could mention here that the Vigo girls look great with or without. Must be something in the water I think.

James and wife are retired now and enjoying life, but he keeps his ear to the ground and remains worried about the state of Spain.  Catalan wanting to break away might mean others leave too and I was interested that the Catalans have banned bull fighting. About time too. The odd thing about Spain, there may well be a financial crisis and 20 percent unemployment, but it is invisible and all looks very prosperous. (Take the wrong turn in town and you will spot junkies and hookers with needle marks, which also tells the story that Vigo, is (apparently) the gateway to major illegal drug imports from Columbia).  James is writing a book on this subject as I speak.

I’d recommend that one doesn’t stay in the old port area (unless there on business, but find a hotel on the beaches of you can – you don’t need the car either. The buses run for only 1 Euro and 17 cents. A bargain. If you have 5 Star money then stay in the wonderful Hotel Pazo Los Escudos and you will be guaranteed sleep.

Parking in Vigo is tough.  16 Euros a day if you put it in a car park, but free if you can find a space up by Castro Park.  A place you should visit first to get a stunning view of the whole city.  Vigo remains one of the few undiscovered (read not yet ruined) cities in Europe and Galicia is clearly proud of it.  Well worth a visit.

*Take your E1-11 card with you. I fell ill after using the swimming pool in Leon and still have a major ear infection.  But the Spanish doctors dealt with me immediately and were very helpful.  That little card is invaluable, believe me.

From Vigo you can take the little ferries or catamarans out to the pristine beaches on the Isla Cies nature reserve.  Take a picnic and spent a whole day there.  Well worth it. (Isla Cies pictured) I returned to Bayonne in France to discover it was the annual Fete and over a million red and white clothed revellers were roaming the streets.  No sleep there either.

Luckily the beach was waiting in Biarritz and the ocean was calm.  One can hide there then retire to Bar Jean for Gambas supper.

Thanks go to Lionel and Catherine for making me so welcome in their home in France and this Pays Basque region of France remains one of the most beautiful in all of Europe.  Well worth the visit, athough if you can find a way of getting there without Ryanair and Stansted I’d recommend it. *I ended up driving 2500ks but at least saw a lot of Spain. © SN 2010
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